South Indian food is not one thing. Chettinad comes from Tamil Nadu and leans on black pepper. Andhra gongura mamsam gets its tang from sorrel leaf rather than tamarind. Pallipalayam is dry-fried with coconut and dried chilli. Nadan Kozhi is looser and coconut-led. Hyderabadi dalcha brings lentils into the meat.
All five are on our Basingstoke menu, as their own dishes. Alongside them: four dosas and an idli made to order, jumbo prawns kuzhambu and home-style fish curry, and a clay oven for tikka and tandoori.
Finish with gulab jamun.